Six hours up, twenty minutes on top, and a long conversation with the wind. That is the whole story of the ridge above the fjord, and it is still worth telling.

The way up

The path starts in birch forest and climbs steadily through heather, then scree, then bare rock with old iron chains bolted in at the steep parts. Nothing is technical. All of it is relentless, and the view keeps arriving behind you, which is a good excuse to stop.

Above the last cairn the ridge narrows to a walkway of broken stone with a long drop on both sides. Walk slowly, keep your weight low, and do not look at your phone.

Twenty minutes

On top there is a summit cairn, a small metal box with a notebook inside, and the whole fjord laid out like a map. We wrote our names under a family from the valley who had been up the week before. Then the cloud came in and we started down.